120, a function of the extra 152 cubic centimeters. The more significant gain is in the realm of torque, 135 pound-feet vs. The engine-speed-sensitive variable-assist power rack system has stiffer shaft mounts, a stiffer steering torsion bar, and a new support yoke, and Mazda claims that system friction has also been reduced.Īnd even though we found the acceleration satisfactory - 8.9 seconds to 60 - and the 1840cc engine "songful," Mazda bolted in an entirely different powerplant as part of this limited makeover. ![]() We liked the precision of the steering, but that, too, came in for revision. We had no complaints in the realm of noise, vibration, and harshness - "no rattles and buzzes, no quivers and thrums" - but Mazda has installed yards of sound-damping material on the floorpan, underhood, and behind the fire wall, and a damper has been added to the front engine mount that inhibits torque motions related to throttle response. We praised the structure of that 2000 Protegé ES - "as solid as the vault at Wells Fargo" - but this 2001 update entails extensive suspension pickup-point reinforcements and heavier suspension subframing. Nevertheless, here's Mazda, fixing something that didn't seem to be broken. Aux Input cables are located in the glove box (3.It's been less than a year since the ES version of the Protegé raced to the head of the transportation appliance class here at C/D by dusting a dozen rivals in a definitive small-sedan shootout (" Little Cars 6.1," June 2000).Pin 13: Blue / Red - Constant Power aka Battery aka Memory, connect to yellow wire in aftermarket harness.Pin 12: Green / Black - Illumination, thanks twizyours.Pin 11: White / Blue - Dimmer, not typically used for an aftermarket radio.Pin 10: Pink / Black - Switched power, connect to red wire in aftermarket harness.Pin 4: Brown / White - Rear Left Speaker (+).Pin 1: Green / Orange - Rear Right Speaker (-).put the trim around your new stereo, turn on the car and try 'er out. ![]() if it seems like the stereo won't go any further and its sticking out, this is probably because the rubber tab at the back of the stereo is not lined up with the hole in the back, pull the stereo out a little then press on the bottom part only (to lift the bottom up) or the top part only (to push the top down).now slide the new stereo into the sleeve, it will snap once it is in place.connecting the antenna wire last seems to work best.try and get the bulk of the wiring tucked down behind the pocket.remember to thread the aux wires through to somewhere first.Now connect the wires and wiring harness to your stereo, including the auxiliary input wires if you have any.Just visually inspect which tabs to depress, whichever ones would most help keep it in place.Use a flathead screwdriver to depress the tabs on the sleeve to keep the sleeve in place (it shouldn't move around afterwards).My mounting harness had small clips around the edges that snapped into place, i had to give it a few shoves for it to snap into place.Now slide your mounting harness into the hole in the dash, this should also be quite snug.Slide the stereo sleeve (that metal frame thing that came with your stereo) into the mounting harness, it should be fairly snug.Remove the factory stereo or remove your old aftermarket stereo.My wiring harness was missing pins for 11 and 12, so I going to have to buy an extra pin for 12 and insert it myself, until then I will just do without the illumination functionality.Don't forget to connect extra wiring from the ground and +battery if you plan on adding any amps.Connect your wiring harness to your new stereo's wiring harness.Your car will sound quite different after you are done, even with factory speakers!.Remember to put the rubber tab on at the back of your new stereo (this helps keep it stable).You should try and wire the ground lead from your new stereo to the chassis if at all possible.You can order these from Mazda (BJ1H-66-9M0) or find them elsewhere. ![]() You can pick these up at most electronics stores.
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